Although I originally planned to go to Pirtorgarh, I changed my mind and headed toward Almora. Why? Because of the damn knocking in my bottom bracket. For those of you who don’t know, it is a mechanical problem- that can only be sorted out maybe in Delhi. I can live with this for awhile, but it is getting worse. I think I will have a relatively easy ride to Almora tomorrow, then decide where to proceed next.

I really could not have gone much further today. With this insane amount of climbing and the first 20 kms. of descent on some very bad roads, I was finished. It was another 3 kms. off the main road to this Hindu holy place Jageshwar Dham.

My Maharashtra driver’s license to the rescue again. Many guest houses do not accept foreigners because they are required to fill in a “c” form which they must deliver to the local cid office. If the establishment either has very few foreign customers or is a distance from the local cid office, it is easier just to say no to the odd foreigner who may come by. Luckily my Maha drivers license was good and the room itself very good.

Jagnath Guest house

Aarti was at 6p.m. and we just got back in time from a run to the off-license to participate in a beautiful ritual. Photography not allowed, but always a privilege to attend.

I rode in the car to the off license with an energetic intelligent guy who runs a restaurnt here. He had gotten second place in this cycle race and won 7000rs.

He asked me how long it would take him to learn English. I asked him why he wanted to learn english and he said that when he had gone to Goa he had to fill in forms that were in English and that it was very difficult. Also he said menus were always in English. He has good points there.

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