In the morning instead of getting on my bike I went to the rickshaw (motorised) stand nearby and asked the driver to show me the fort and havelis in Churu. He didn’t know much- this really is not a tourist place- and he learned something too about the havelis by following my inquisitive lead. I think this is a spectacular place.
Among these havelis we were directed to a 100 year old ice factory in one of these havelis.
And this is not a tourist place.
I contined on my bike about 30 kms. where I also saw many havelis but visited only 2. The first was nice but rather modes.
This haveli (Singhania) is for sale the elderly caretaker informed me for 3 crores.
Next I went to the nearby leprince haveli, bought and restored by a Frenchwoman 20 years ago and now a homestay or boutique hotel mostly for French people. A young French volunteer showed me around (250 rs.) and it was very nice.
20 kms. brought me to Mandawa a small town that seems to be a hub for tourism in Shekhawati. I did find the local wine shop where the low life was up on the small roof drinking, sitting on cardboard amongst mounds of plastic cups and bottles. Once it was known i spoke hindi conversation flowed, mostly about mumbai where some guys had worked. After one beer I went to the restaurant recommended be the Frenchman from Mandawa and it was terrible. But I think most if not all of the restaurants here in this small kasbah will be for tourists.
love the looks of these havelis – mostly still people living in them?
No, just caretakers. The wealthy owners are the famous Marwaris who originally made their fortunes in Calcutta but kept their ancestral places for family marriages etc. Now they are scattered about- Mumbai, Singapore, Canada etc. Some magnificent havelis are falling into ruin from neglect.