I will probably leave here the day after tomorrow before a few days of visiting Deepak and Shanti’s relatives in places south of here.

Back in Pokhara internet connectivity…..and the end of the line. As I had said yesterday we had to stop early because of rain. This morning that rain was a blessing because it dampened down all that dust. I must mention the guest house/lodge in Tukuche where we stayed. Here included is a photo/image of the sacred hesrt of Jesus in this very typical Bhuddist house. Well, make of it what you want, the patriarch of the family simply and briefly said thisis god and pointed to his heart. I liked this lodge/guest house most of any place we had stayed, and the tsampa (barley) porridge with the local apples was wonderful. The only other guests here in Tukuche were 3 nepali guys on motorcycles who we later met at a river crossing. I loved the simple dignity of this hotel where everything just seemed perfectly in its place.

THE RIDE…….. Started out at 7 and in a couple of hours were in Kalopani, yesterday’s intended destination. Now the road had more traffic especially motorcyclists doing their challenges. For a couple of river crossings I prefered to take off my shoes and wade across rather than perform heroics jumping rocks and having soaked feet for the rest of the day, or worse. Eventually we got to tatopani around noon. Because of Dusshera the most important festival in Nepal we were able to find only momos to eat. Then began the mudfest. The road was just full of traffic and a muddy mess. This was the same road I had ridden on last year and the deterioration was remarkable

We arrived in Beni at 3p.m. loaded the bikes on a bus and headed back to Pokhara. I have to say that this was the wildest bus ride I have ever been on. Here again was a road I had been on last year but the condition now….Add to that heavy rain and manic driver we were happy just to arrive in one piece.

Lucky we had run into Laxman. My guide didn’t know this trail so we were off with Laxman and Sheldon. Sheldon’s wife had fallen ill so she and her friend went down to Jomosom by jeep. Too bad because accordi

This is Thor aka Sheldon an incredible mountain biker from the u.k.

ng to Laxman they are kick-ass mountain bikers. Sheldon and Laxman were quite incredible and I couldn’t quite believe some of the treacherous sections I (and my guide) had to gingerly climb down they had ridden down. I only wish I could have seen them do it. I was pretty scared on some very narrow tracks with any wrong move bringing serious consequences. No, mountain biking is not for me.

We left the others after lunch in Jomsom heading to Kalopani where the Tibetan plateau culture and ecosystem changes to what is called the subtropical. 15 kilometers before Kalopani it started raining and we were lucky to find accomadation in Tugche.

Sorry, it is Tukuche. Stopping here early has its rewards- like the amazing apple brandy, distilled right here. More importantly here, and all these places in the tibetan cultural area has reminded me of how wonderful these people are. Interesting though that Dussain the most important religious event of the Nepali calendar is celebrated here too, in a Buddhist area.

Many people come from all over to be in their native places for this holiday. In this guest house is a boy who grew up in Japan. He is now in a boarding school in Kathmandu and although he speaks perfect Japanese does not speak Nepalese. He is learning now. There are many of these cultural anomalies it seems in Nepal and many if not all youngsters here are studying in either Kathmand or Pokhara.

I must admit that I was apprehensive, about the altitude (5500 mtrs). The night before I slept very badly and had little appetite. I was well awake by 3 a.m. an unappetizing breakfast at 3:30 and departure at 4 using a bright headlamp. Two hours took us to lower camp Torong La where I momentarily considered halting for the night. My breathing was very labourious at that altitude but rest with sugar and tea got me going. It was very slow going and there was no cycling whatsoever. Eventually I reached the summit at maybe 11 a.m. My (useless) guide was feeling ill, and looking it, and asked to immediately start descending. I of course said no and relished observing his suffering. Momentarily 2 cyclists pulled up, Michael from Germany and Suraj from Kathmandu. Now there was a guide….

In the small hut on top i had a nice tea. In walks another German who thinks 250 nepali rupees is a rip-off. This ill-tempered complaint was not appreciated by the genial young man who somehow manages to run the place alone with everything sold there making the long journey by pony all the way from Manang.

The journey down the other side involved some fantastic mountain biking. It wasn’t easy and there were places I couldn’t ride. Eventually we arrived in Muktinath in the Mustang region. Many Hindu pilgrims come to this temple that has both Hindu and Buddhist worshipers.

Just a word on Tibetan tea that I was offered by the gallons years ago when I was in Lhasa. I learned to like that peculiar taste back then. Here when I tried it, it didn’t have that strong taste and was, for tea, expensive. I then found out that here, it is made with amul butter from India instead of yak butter which is available here but very expensive.

Met my Estonian freinds from the night before. They were staying in the Bob Marley hotel. I wish we were staying there. It really looked nice. Our place was nice enough and besides the 2 cyclists I had met at the pass, Laxman, from Pokhara mountain biking from where my guide came from was there with his 3 British clients. The next day we were all going on a single track mountain biking only trail down to the kali gandaki river.

SSince I didn’t feel any symptoms of altitude sickness I decided to continue. It was a virtual trekkers highway and sometimes not easy to pass trekkers along the narrow trail. It was a beautiful day and a very pleasant atmosphere. Met some nice young Hindi speakers from Pune. A French guy had a go on the mtb. We came across a big group of German mountain bikers travelling in the opposite direction. They warned us it is very cold on the Tharung La pass.I would say that I rode the bicycle today about 1/3 of the time. Because of the altitude I could only push the bike up any incline.

An early morning start and by about noon we were at our scheduled stop for the night! Obviously onward we toiled- at least I did- and after a day of climbing, climbing and climbing, reached Chame at about 4- 4-30. The insane elevation gain that strava recorded must be crazy wrong, but it was a lot! Interesting lot of foreigners trekking- i have spoken with Israelis (including a woman professional mtb cyclist trekking with her father), Spaniards, French, and Germans. Tomorrow is a similar sort of day, I think, to Manang where we are going to rest, dry and wash clothes, and acclimatise for the gruelling high altitude days ahead.

After a taxi ride from Pokhara, lunch in Besisahar we began the mountain bike riding. I was glad to have the shock absorbers on the front forks. It makes a world of difference over this very rough terrain. Water and mud everywhere and only 4 wheel drive vehicles can manage this road. My guide Prince says he has only done this trip once before. I am not too sure of that though. His boss had told me to only speak in English with him, but really he is so much more comfortable with Hindi that I am afraid it will be difficult to stick with English. It may not look like much of a ride today, but believe me it was enough. Mountain biking is hard! I had the astounding feat of corey wallace confirmed today- having completed this Annapurna circuit in 22 hours. Well, this Canadian legend comes every year for Yak Attack, the world famous mtb stage race that includes the Annapurna circuit, and wins it easily despite the participation of other foreign mtb pros and the awesome Nepali mtb riders.

This is an amazing place and I just hope I can make it. The Thorung La pass at over 5000 meters is coming up in a few days and for that day alone I have had to purchase and carry winter gear. I hope there isn’t snow. Wish me luck blogdhosts.