Bangladesh – James Stevenson https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com Fri, 27 Dec 2024 12:03:50 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/cropped-d03b549f-48ff-4f7b-95db-65376f96dae3-1-32x32.jpeg Bangladesh – James Stevenson https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com 32 32 Back in India https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/05/03/back-in-india/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/05/03/back-in-india/#respond Fri, 03 May 2024 14:06:00 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2410 Frankly, I couldn’t wait to get back to India. I was tired of the constant chitter-chatter directed my way that seemed more mental harassment than genuine curiosity.
The food was terrible. I didn’t see any vegetable dish at all nor any fresh juices or lassi. The masala for the fish or chicken was heavy and always given in such small quantities. It didn’t seem to make any difference in a nicer restaurant or a simple place.
Like most things in BD restaurants were grey drab affairs- nothing to attract one inside.
Beer was usually impossible to find and I gave up on the insipid 5% Hunters beer.
It is no problem being asked “what you country” or any ungrammatical variation. Sometimes more questions and usually “insta, YouTube or Facebook”? To which I direct them to my blog (combining video, photos and text). That resulted in blank disinterest. I don’t think they knew what a website or browser is.
Like many other places BD is plagued with chaotic traffic with electric rickshaws zipping around at speed along with the old pedal rickshaws and every other kind of aggressive road hog. Dangerous it is and I did end up on the ground once in Khulna with a sore coccyx.
In Chattogram (2nd city of BD) there was also a flyover in the city and it reminded me of the shock I had in Kolkata cycling in on the iconic Park Street which has been completely ruined by a flyover above it. Not unlike the flyover above Mohammed Ali Road in Mumbai. All aesthetic and charm lost and for what?
I suppose I will think of more things to rant about but my visit to BD has given me a greater appreciation of India. I immediately felt at home. The professionalism of the security and immigration personnel at the border was exemplary. Although my bicycle was an oddity I was thoroughly checked out.
Tonight a simple veg thali and a Carlsberg was perfect. I can eat again!

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Chattogram 2 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/05/01/chattogram-2/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/05/01/chattogram-2/#respond Wed, 01 May 2024 10:52:53 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2403 At the hotel I stayed at I noticed on google a cycle shop nearby. They very kindly cleaned and lubed chain and pumped up the tires.  This is a very friendly shop (in contrast with the unfriendly shop in Kolkata) and Dipankar knows his stuff. A little bit of chaos in a bike shop- perfectly acceptable.

I was keen to cycle in the Chittagong Hill Tracts a hilly area that has had an insurgency problem for many years but is now quiet. A permit is required and after what I had read online, after much searching found the DC (district collector) office concerned. There I was told that now it is an online process and can take 2-3 days. I am not waiting so forget it.
Not feeling so well I went back to Barisal the same way I came by bus and the pleasant 5 hour launch.
I am headed back to India- hoorah!
Enough is enough and when I am in the mood I will spill my complaints.

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Chattogram (Chittagong) https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/28/chattogram-chittagong/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/28/chattogram-chittagong/#respond Sun, 28 Apr 2024 11:04:43 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2391


I didn’t intend to have such a long ride but when I saw 80 kms. to go I thought I can do that.
I was certainly looking forward to having some beer. It being unavailable the last few days.
Last night in Lakshmipur I stayed in the worst hotel ever. It was an oven and twice during the night the electricity went off and sleep was impossible. It was only 500 taka.

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5 hour ferry ride https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/27/5-hour-ferry-ride/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/27/5-hour-ferry-ride/#respond Sat, 27 Apr 2024 10:08:54 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2370 This was a very nice ferry- amazing really- well organised and enjoyable- until the end.
The boat wasn’t able to make it to the jetty because of silting. Smaller boats were there to take the passengers the few hundred meters left. Because there were hundreds of people packed standing on these 2 boats I did not think I would be able to get aboard and I followed some other folks overland.

As you can see, an unexpected single track through some villages.
Here is a video of the ferry ride-


Met these 2 helpful guys.
Along the way this woman was beating something. I don’t know what.

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Barisal https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/26/barisal/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/26/barisal/#respond Fri, 26 Apr 2024 11:23:50 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2358
  • This is a bustling port city and I have the nicest hotel room. Check out this view from my balcony-
  • Here is a picture of the launch I will take tomorrow. It leaves at 6 a.m. and arrives in Laxmipur about 4 hours later.
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    Golachipa and other places https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/25/golachipa-and-other-places/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/25/golachipa-and-other-places/#respond Thu, 25 Apr 2024 13:37:29 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2353 I took a road, looked like a shortcut but was in a terrible condition. I was headed to Panpatti which on google maps looked like the ferry jetty where I could get a boat eastward. No luck, but they directed me 2 kms. away where I could get a boat. Unfortunately they were small speedboats for short local trips and for my very long one they quoted 15,000 taka or about 12000 Indian. Seemed like too much.


    Rickshaws are nicely painted here

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    Bangladeshis love paan and cigarettes but no bidis and very little alcohol😩 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/24/bangladeshis-love-paan-and-cigarettes-but-no-bidis-and-very-little-alcohol%f0%9f%98%a9/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/24/bangladeshis-love-paan-and-cigarettes-but-no-bidis-and-very-little-alcohol%f0%9f%98%a9/#respond Wed, 24 Apr 2024 12:35:25 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2340
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    Navigation and ferries https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/24/navigation-and-ferries/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/24/navigation-and-ferries/#respond Wed, 24 Apr 2024 12:02:57 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2329

    I have always loved sitting down in the evening and planning the next day’s route. These recent days have been the most challenging because of there being no one to ask and there being a multitude of possibilities.
    I do not want to go the most obvious direct routes but neither do I want to go very far each day because of the heat and my still painful leg. I also have to find a hopefully ac hotel.
    The multitude of rivers and ferries can be confusing and timings of course non existent. So far I have been lucky.
    That said, I do like the ferries and intend to take the maximum.
    I am trying to take the most southerly route possible, eventually to Cox’s Bazaar. It should take me through Noakhali, infamous for the communal riots in early 1940’s.
    For all of this I am a true disciple of Google Maps. I love using it and supplement it with a couple of other excellent apps, mapy.cz, pocket earth, and maps.me
    A couple of random photos from ferry-

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    South (Sunderbans?) https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/23/south-sunderbans/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/23/south-sunderbans/#respond Tue, 23 Apr 2024 13:52:20 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2320
  • I was thinking about visiting the Sunderbans, Bangladesh side, but couldn’t quite find anyone to ask, or find any local information on how to go about it.  It involves tourist boats that go through the massive mangrove forests that cover an enormous territory in Bangladesh and West Bengal.  Maybe it was too much for just one person anyway.
  • So I rode along the most southerly road I could find and headed east through a very rural Bangladesh of fish farms involving huge expances of water (mostly too saline for rice).  This was very pleasant cycling. And eventually a ferry across a huge river.  I arrived in the town of Mithbaria.
    Room tonight is 1500rs. nice and with AC. Last night room was not so great at 1000.  Did have AC.

    Tonight unable to find any alcohol 😩.  Last night had to take a ferry to find the bar, dark and seedy like in India.

     

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    Into Bangladesh https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/21/into-bangladesh/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2024/04/21/into-bangladesh/#respond Sun, 21 Apr 2024 13:48:43 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=2309

    1. In Despite the huge crowd crossing the border I was escorted through the Indian side then the Bangladesh side where they gave me a visa no problem.  They are very particular about one having a hotel reservation for some reason which I had done the night before.
      A SIM card and money exchange and I was on my way to Jashore (old name Jessore) about 40-50 kms. away.
      I was very much an object of curiosity immediately with the first question always “where are you from?”.

    Road was good and somewhat less traffic than on the West Bengal side.
    I have found so far along the way that some people (guys of course) speak Hindi and when I have asked them where they learned it they said from Hindi movies.  It is always a relief because English is not very common.

    Last night, in Jashore I was able to buy 2 small cans of Hunter beer and tonight one of those cans would have cost me 800 taka or about 600 r/s.  I declined.

     

     

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