Pakistan Aug-Sept 2023 – James Stevenson https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com Wed, 27 Sep 2023 03:50:27 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.1 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/cropped-d03b549f-48ff-4f7b-95db-65376f96dae3-1-32x32.jpeg Pakistan Aug-Sept 2023 – James Stevenson https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com 32 32 In Islamabad https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/25/in-islamabad/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/25/in-islamabad/#respond Mon, 25 Sep 2023 15:47:25 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1755 Took care of visa extension business as best I could and rode out to meet Zaigham who very kindly offered to clean my chain and pump up the tires. He organises cycle trips with Islamabad cycling enthusiasts and is a very enjoyable conversationalist.  Time was getting short and he lives 19 kms. from central Islamabad where I am staying. A real mother of a traffic jam on Park Road.  Chain freshly lubed and no luggage on the bicycle I could really fly (except for the traffic jam).

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Gilgit to Chilas https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/25/gilgit-to-chilas/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/25/gilgit-to-chilas/#respond Mon, 25 Sep 2023 14:58:38 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1742 I was in a hurry to get to Islamabad to get my visa extension, so cycled what I had done in 2 days coming up in one day going down from Gilgit to Chilas.

As you can see, a long day.  When I got to Chilas I was planning to find a vehicle to take me and bicycle up Babusar pass, then cycle the long downhill. Instead I took advice and took a bus all the way to Manshera. Very cold at Babusar Top, as it is called. .

Children selling saag


The other side of Babusar pass becomes the Kaghan Valley, another popular tourist destination for Pakistanis. Unlike the other, almost desert-like scenery on the northern side of Babusar, here it is full of pine forests and high pasture.
Saw a lone cycle tourist from the bus. How I wished I could have met him.
This type of bus is called a “coaster” for some reason and I was greatly relieved to find my bicycle totally undamaged and arriving in Manserha at 5 p.m. decided to cycle to Abbottabad so as to have a shorter ride the next day.
Although it was signposted as 17 kms. It turned out to be 24. It was dark by the time I arrived but found a nice hotel at 4,500 prs. and was finally able to have the famous shinwari cuisine. Btw, 4500 rupees here equals about 1300 rupees Indian.  That is what my hotel room here in the Islamabad Palace Guest House costs.

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Back in Gilgit https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/21/back-in-gilgit/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/21/back-in-gilgit/#respond Thu, 21 Sep 2023 13:02:04 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1740 I have to say the highlight of my day was meeting this beautiful couple from Chile. They are heading up to Hunza but we may meet again in Punjab.
I thought I might be able to get a visa extension here but have found out I must go to Islamabad. So, after buying some diarrhoea medicine and washing my clothes I have a good long ride ahead of me tomorrow to Chilas.

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Passu to Nagar https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/21/passu-to-nagar/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/21/passu-to-nagar/#respond Thu, 21 Sep 2023 12:44:53 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1727 It was a cold start this morning and I was concerned about a pain in my knee and residual diarrhoea. It soon got better and all was ok.

I had mentioned the tunnels in a previous post.  Today I took some GoPro video .

thought I would try to get my visa extended in Gilgit but didn’t want to do the 150 kms. in 1 day, so stopped at about 100 in Sikandarabad at the worst hotel.  On the other hand lunch was maybe the best I have had, under this apple tree. I don’t know if this was beef, mutton, or even yak but it was delicious and cheap.
I took this video of tandoori roti making, next to the restaurant in Nasirabad, the last village in Hunza before the beginning of Nagar district.

Along the I met the first cycle tourist so far, and that was Samir from Tunisia. This independent soul interviewed me, then I interviewed him (in French)

 

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Passu https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/19/passu/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/19/passu/#comments Tue, 19 Sep 2023 16:05:29 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1713

It was a rainy start this morning but it very soon cleared up. This again was about as beautiful cycling as is possible, very little traffic, great road surface, gorgeous scenery, and perfect temperature.

It was lucky that I had with me a front light as well as the rear one otherwise the ride would have to have been aborted and this is because of 2 very long dark tunnels- the longest by far of any tunnel I have cycled through.



  • This is as far north I will be going and it is cold. I guess fairly high altitude too.


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Karimabad, Hunza https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/18/karimabad-hunza/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/18/karimabad-hunza/#respond Mon, 18 Sep 2023 08:38:42 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1689 This is the Baltic fort, a UNESCO world heritage site. Beautifully restored.

What a beautiful hotel here. I am so glad because I have had tummy upset and have had another rest day to recover.

Stormy weather


Detail of carpet
Karimabad is the center of the tourism industry in Hunza and is very popular with Pakistani tourists.  When I went to visit the Baltit fort this morning I followed along a group of Russian tourists. There was also a group of Slovenian tourists. I also met and chatted with a young Swiss couple on Honda dirt bikes who had come from Europe, through Russia, and China through the Khunjerab Pass to Hunza. Very nice couple.

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Gilgit to Hunza https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/16/gilgit-to-hunza/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/16/gilgit-to-hunza/#respond Sat, 16 Sep 2023 13:40:47 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1633

  1. This was a really wonderful cycling day. Long and hard as can be seen on the Strava, but with an excellent road and traffic not so bad it could not have been better.    Along the way there were stalls making this particular kind of pizza-like flatbread. It was delicious.
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Chilas-Jaglot https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/16/chilas-jaglot/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/16/chilas-jaglot/#respond Sat, 16 Sep 2023 01:07:55 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1627 Chilas to Jagalot….Now I was in tourist country- the first I have noticed- all Pakistani tourists. I have also noticed quite a few motorcycle tourists on the road- maybe some of them are foreigners- impossible to tell.

    Another thumbs down hotel in Jaglot and no internet.
     Crossed over to the other side of the Indus and an easy 50 kms. to Gilgit.
     I was greatly relieved today by being able to withdraw cash from an ATM.  It is not such a simple matter in Pakistan. In Lahore I had to go to 7 different ATMs before finding one that would accept an international Visa card. I was afraid I might not find a single one in Gilgit.  I was also able to buy an essential Allen key I would need for any flat tyre situation.
     The hotel here in Gilgit is good. Here is a short video of the Indus
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Into Gilgit-Baltistan https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/16/into-gilgit-baltistan/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/16/into-gilgit-baltistan/#respond Sat, 16 Sep 2023 00:45:05 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1612 The next morning I was almost ready when there was a sudden panic- the convoy had arrived and my escort vehicle was the lead car. Mostly these were the Volvo type tourist buses and other vehicles that travel in these convoys for security reasons.

     Only 2 police wagons this morning and I was at the Upper Kohistan- Gilgit-Baltistan border at 8:30 a.m.
     Then I was solo and free-it was a glorious ride, good road and little traffic, the convoy long gone.

     About 5-10 kms. down the there was another checkpost and 2 policemen on a motorbike were sent to escort me. After some chatting they rode well away to give me space. I arrived in Chilas and stayed in the nicest hotel- very much a tourist hotel but full of character.

     I
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Kohistan https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/15/kohistan-police-escort/ https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/2023/09/15/kohistan-police-escort/#respond Fri, 15 Sep 2023 15:26:17 +0000 https://www.cyclingaboutindia.com/?p=1597
  •    ….This morning after leaving Besham and fixing a flat tyre, about 10 kms. down the road I was stopped at another police checkpost; here they insisted on police escort. It was soon too annoying having a police wagon slowly creeping along behind me, so I put my bicycle in the car and off we went. It didn’t end there….Pleasant as it was getting to know these gregarious cops soon I was told that their jurisdiction ended and I would be going on in another wagon. This went on and on, maybe a total of 20 different vehicles, all the way through Lower and Upper Kohistan. It was getting dark and they proposed I spend the night at the police thana. I had no idea about hotels in this area, or any security issues and agreed.  It was an enjoyable experience even without any electricity or mobile network. Their generator had been washed away in a flas flood. The one light (solar powered) is what you see in the photo of our dining. What a beautiful sleep on a charpoy under the stars.
         These policemen were all very friendly and respectful. Like everyone I’ve met they are curious. I guess they don’t meet people like me very often who can speak Urdu. I enjoy it too and I am continuing to WhatsApp chat with some of them.Dinner
         Although I would much prefer not having the police escorts I realize it is for me and my well-being that they are doing this and I am grateful. There also were stretches of the road in a terrible condition and I was happy being in the wagons.
         One difference from the Indian curiosity is that one of the first question guys ask me is how many children I have and if boys or girls. I think it indicates how much of a priority that is here.
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