Goa to Nepal via Bangladesh Mar-May 2024 – James Stevenson

Journey done

James Stevenson — Mon, 13 May 2024 07:29:27 +0000

It wasn’t really necessary but Deepak very kindly came to pick me up in Narayanghat. There were some beautiful stretches of new roads but some post rainstorms stretches of mud that would have been next to impossible to manage with a bicycle. Glorious Pokhara- I even felt cold.
I consulted a doctor a few days ago about an incessant cough I have had for weeks. I hope now with antibiotics etc. and warm run that will get better.
Today rest, haircut, clothes wash and clothes shopping.
As you can see from the stats here I have done over 4100 kms.

Into Nepal

James Stevenson — Sat, 11 May 2024 14:18:10 +0000

I arrived early from Forbesganj at the border. It is quite an impressive operation on the Indian side. I had to wait a couple of hours for it to open and I was on my way to the Nepal side. The usual sort of border chaos and I went in search of the Immigration office to get my visa. It was a couple of kilometers up the road and of course I missed it. Asking about yielded no results- this is an obscure unknown office apparently. Eventually I found it and a long wait ensued because of no electricity.
Eventually found a hotel in Biratnagar, expensive at 3800 nc a night and not really very good.
Off west along the Mahendra Highway and construction work on the highway for the next 2 days made it quite tiring.
Excellent modest hotels at Lahan, Laldunga, and Hetauda. I maybe unnecessarily take a.c. rooms . My 2 non-ac experiences, albeit a long while back traumatised me. Often the a.c. is just too cold for me. The room rates are about between 1800 and 2300 n.c.
I am relishing the food. Simple but superb. I had dreamed about this kind of food when I was in the culinary wasteland of Bangladesh.
My 3d day from Laldanga to Hetauda ended up being severely testing. The highway was narrow and the traffic insane. Then a stretch of no-road, full concentration and steely nerves. Made it alive through that, then the hills. I’m glad I didn’t know in advance that it was coming up. The narrowness of the road plus my exhaustion at this point plus a thundershower- suicidal stuff really.

2 days in Bihar

James Stevenson — Tue, 07 May 2024 12:36:24 +0000

These have been long days one after the other each over 100 kms.
Some nice roads and weather from Malda following The Ganges (but too far away to see). Windy and dusty entry into Bihar and overwhelming forced socialising.
Bihar is dry… so sad and seems serious about it.

Heading north in West Bengal

James Stevenson — Sun, 05 May 2024 12:58:18 +0000

I would like to get to Nepal as soon as possible and I don’t think I could have done better. Four lane highways but with the constant barrage of traffic coming down the wrong side, some scarey roadwork sections and some monster traffic standstills (that I can manoeuvre through) it has not been easy going.
2 very poor hotels the last 2 nights, but tonight in Malda a nice place. 2,000rs. a night.
Unexpectedly met a fellow cyclist from Delhi, RJ Mahtao who has been on the road 450 days! I am in full admiration of this guy who manages his stays with dharmashalas and other free sources. We had a most enjoyable visit and from here he is headed to the Northeast.

Back in India

James Stevenson — Fri, 03 May 2024 14:06:00 +0000

Frankly, I couldn’t wait to get back to India. I was tired of the constant chitter-chatter directed my way that seemed more mental harassment than genuine curiosity.
The food was terrible. I didn’t see any vegetable dish at all nor any fresh juices or lassi. The masala for the fish or chicken was heavy and always given in such small quantities. It didn’t seem to make any difference in a nicer restaurant or a simple place.
Like most things in BD restaurants were grey drab affairs- nothing to attract one inside.
Beer was usually impossible to find and I gave up on the insipid 5% Hunters beer.
It is no problem being asked “what you country” or any ungrammatical variation. Sometimes more questions and usually “insta, YouTube or Facebook”? To which I direct them to my blog (combining video, photos and text). That resulted in blank disinterest. I don’t think they knew what a website or browser is.
Like many other places BD is plagued with chaotic traffic with electric rickshaws zipping around at speed along with the old pedal rickshaws and every other kind of aggressive road hog. Dangerous it is and I did end up on the ground once in Khulna with a sore coccyx.
In Chattogram (2nd city of BD) there was also a flyover in the city and it reminded me of the shock I had in Kolkata cycling in on the iconic Park Street which has been completely ruined by a flyover above it. Not unlike the flyover above Mohammed Ali Road in Mumbai. All aesthetic and charm lost and for what?
I suppose I will think of more things to rant about but my visit to BD has given me a greater appreciation of India. I immediately felt at home. The professionalism of the security and immigration personnel at the border was exemplary. Although my bicycle was an oddity I was thoroughly checked out.
Tonight a simple veg thali and a Carlsberg was perfect. I can eat again!

Chattogram 2

James Stevenson — Wed, 01 May 2024 10:52:53 +0000

At the hotel I stayed at I noticed on google a cycle shop nearby. They very kindly cleaned and lubed chain and pumped up the tires. This is a very friendly shop (in contrast with the unfriendly shop in Kolkata) and Dipankar knows his stuff. A little bit of chaos in a bike shop- perfectly acceptable.

I was keen to cycle in the Chittagong Hill Tracts a hilly area that has had an insurgency problem for many years but is now quiet. A permit is required and after what I had read online, after much searching found the DC (district collector) office concerned. There I was told that now it is an online process and can take 2-3 days. I am not waiting so forget it.
Not feeling so well I went back to Barisal the same way I came by bus and the pleasant 5 hour launch.
I am headed back to India- hoorah!
Enough is enough and when I am in the mood I will spill my complaints.

Chattogram (Chittagong)

James Stevenson — Sun, 28 Apr 2024 11:04:43 +0000

I didn’t intend to have such a long ride but when I saw 80 kms. to go I thought I can do that.
I was certainly looking forward to having some beer. It being unavailable the last few days.
Last night in Lakshmipur I stayed in the worst hotel ever. It was an oven and twice during the night the electricity went off and sleep was impossible. It was only 500 taka.

5 hour ferry ride

James Stevenson — Sat, 27 Apr 2024 10:08:54 +0000

This was a very nice ferry- amazing really- well organised and enjoyable- until the end.
The boat wasn’t able to make it to the jetty because of silting. Smaller boats were there to take the passengers the few hundred meters left. Because there were hundreds of people packed standing on these 2 boats I did not think I would be able to get aboard and I followed some other folks overland.

As you can see, an unexpected single track through some villages.
Here is a video of the ferry ride-

Met these 2 helpful guys.
Along the way this woman was beating something. I don’t know what.

Barisal

James Stevenson — Fri, 26 Apr 2024 11:23:50 +0000

This is a bustling port city and I have the nicest hotel room. Check out this view from my balcony-
Here is a picture of the launch I will take tomorrow. It leaves at 6 a.m. and arrives in Laxmipur about 4 hours later.

Golachipa and other places

James Stevenson — Thu, 25 Apr 2024 13:37:29 +0000

I took a road, looked like a shortcut but was in a terrible condition. I was headed to Panpatti which on google maps looked like the ferry jetty where I could get a boat eastward. No luck, but they directed me 2 kms. away where I could get a boat. Unfortunately they were small speedboats for short local trips and for my very long one they quoted 15,000 taka or about 12000 Indian. Seemed like too much.

Rickshaws are nicely painted here