Karnataka – James Stevenson

Mahbubnagar

James Stevenson — Sun, 31 Mar 2024 14:52:28 +0000

Sorry folks, no photos today. It was a long highway ride today (112 kms.) on the road to Hyderabad. I missed the complimentary breakfast starting at 8a.m. In this heat I cannot afford to miss 7-8 a.m. on the road.
Crossed the Cauvery river into Telengana after a couple of hours and the language changed. My fellow travellers on the road, primarily motorcyclists, started chatting with me more than in Karnataka. Maybe just a first impression. Friendly all around, but I do appreciate the loud, smoky atmosphere in the bar where I sit writing this with no one paying me any attention.

i had a lodge picked out from Google that I was headed to, but a rickshaw driver who had accosted me, probably for the usual queries, directed me to the best Lodge in Mahbubnagar and thank you, he was right. At 2300rs. it wouldn’t have been the cheapest, but I am sure it ie the best.

Mahbubnagar may not look like much on a map, but it is not so small- I would say a small city.

Tomorrow I plan to avoid Hyderabad and the anticipated hideous traffic and take another route. This is a tricky bit of route planning with the added consideration of heatwave conditions in the days to follow. For me it means I do not want to do much more than 100kms. Per day and would like to find accommodation by 1 or 2 p.m.

Lingayat Khanavali

James Stevenson — Sun, 31 Mar 2024 14:20:46 +0000

How is it that after visiting Karnataka so many times I wasn’t aware of Lingayat Khanavali food/restaurants? Here is it is described in google- “A Khanavali is a family-run eatery run mostly by Lingayats that serve authentic vegetarian food consisting of jowar rotis, a few salads, fresh fenugreek leaf salad, chutney pudi (powder) made from green and red chillies, lentil dishes followed by rice with rasam, curd and dessert.“

It is a perfect lunch for a cyclist- nutritious and very tasty. This trip I have noticed them regularly in north Karnataka and have also searched them out. Now that I have crossed the Cauvery into Telengana I don’t imagine I will see any more.

After having my excellent meal at a Khanavali in Raichur I noticed a modest place nearby called Raichur Gadigi Chicken. So, after having a beer at my posh hotel, I wandered down there for dinner. I had no idea what “Gadigi” was, but after the presentation from a clay pot, I realized, that is what it is. I must say it was absolutely delicious! The link is to Raichur Gadigi Chicken and I leave you to discover it.

Lingasur, Raichur

James Stevenson — Sat, 30 Mar 2024 15:41:43 +0000

In Lingasur I found a decent lodge for 1500 r/s. (ac). I think this is the first place I have stayed ever where, when I asked for the key to lock the room when I went out was told that it wasn’t necessary. It felt odd but also quite nice.
It was a pleasant ride from Aihole to Lingasur and also from Lingasur to Raichur, a fairly big city still in Karnataka. Roads have been excellent, mostly State highways and traffic not bad.
In Raichur I have quite a deluxe room for 2800rs.

Aihole

James Stevenson — Sat, 30 Mar 2024 14:36:08 +0000

I started out today with a short ride to Aihole (about 30 kms.) where I could stop at a tourist place and see the extraordinary sites here. On my way was Pattadkal a UNESCO world heritage site. Another extraordinary place. It gives me an extraordinary feeling for the past, and here a past dating to 7th century. The emotion and passion in the temple sculptures here (the oldest in Karnataka) is wonderful.I stayed in the Karnataka state “resort” in Aihole. It bore all the hallmarks of a state run enterprise- good intentions with shabby maintenance and a “fawlty towers” ambience. At 1500 rs. for an a.c. room it was fine, if not excellent. . . . An active Nandi in a temple in Pattadkal.

Badami

James Stevenson — Thu, 28 Mar 2024 15:51:31 +0000

Badami

I had been to the amazing ancient cave and temple site in Badami several years ago and since it was more or less on my way this trip I thought I would stop again and include the nearby sites of Pattadkal and Aihole.

Clark’s Inn was a bit fancy and relatively expensive at 2,750 rs. a night including morning breakfast but very nice. I was not pleased that all wine shops were still closed, the 3d day of Holi, so no beer.

The next day I had an easy ride to Aihole, stopping in Pattadkal on the way.

After last night I craved a.c. and I arrived at Clark’s Inn. Yes, I will take the room (2,750rs.). Very nice. And the extraordinary things/places at Badami in the afternoon heat.. .

Anmod

James Stevenson — Thu, 28 Mar 2024 15:41:49 +0000

✓ After my second day of this trip I wonder how far I will get. I am not at the point of being a forever” cycle tourist, home being in constant motion, and the starting out on this incredibly long journey is tough.
✓ The last 2 days were challenging.
✓ I left home at about 6:45a.m. and after breakfast at Mollem started the climb of Anmod ghat. It was no problem, but hard, a big contribution to the 1500m. altitude gain, according to Strava. I was so happy that the Anmod-Khanapur forest road toward Balgavi, has been repaired and I arrived in Khanapur early but exhausted. Refused at one lodge but accepted at second (1500rs.).
✓ I wasn’t too happy that, it being Holi, there was no alcohol whatsoever. I could hardly believe that having dodged a few Holi marauders on Monday, I came across serious gangs of guys full of masti today (Tuesday), and the booze shops closed here today, but available at 150rs. (black market.
✓ I am not unfriendly, but neither am I fond of the rowdiness of Holi and I sped through the gangs of rowdies with single minded purpose.
✓ Thanks I stopped at the first lodge I saw in Nargund and for 900 r/s. was accepted. The very nice (maybe gay?) receptionist doesn’t speak English and almost no Hindi. He did tell me that he didn’t have a.c. rooms, but after last night it didn’t seem to matter. Here though, with a very different climate from Gaa it is hot! I wish I had an a.c. room……tomorrow.

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