West Bengal – James Stevenson

Heading north in West Bengal

James Stevenson — Sun, 05 May 2024 12:58:18 +0000

I would like to get to Nepal as soon as possible and I don’t think I could have done better. Four lane highways but with the constant barrage of traffic coming down the wrong side, some scarey roadwork sections and some monster traffic standstills (that I can manoeuvre through) it has not been easy going.
2 very poor hotels the last 2 nights, but tonight in Malda a nice place. 2,000rs. a night.
Unexpectedly met a fellow cyclist from Delhi, RJ Mahtao who has been on the road 450 days! I am in full admiration of this guy who manages his stays with dharmashalas and other free sources. We had a most enjoyable visit and from here he is headed to the Northeast.

Back in India

James Stevenson — Fri, 03 May 2024 14:06:00 +0000

Frankly, I couldn’t wait to get back to India. I was tired of the constant chitter-chatter directed my way that seemed more mental harassment than genuine curiosity.
The food was terrible. I didn’t see any vegetable dish at all nor any fresh juices or lassi. The masala for the fish or chicken was heavy and always given in such small quantities. It didn’t seem to make any difference in a nicer restaurant or a simple place.
Like most things in BD restaurants were grey drab affairs- nothing to attract one inside.
Beer was usually impossible to find and I gave up on the insipid 5% Hunters beer.
It is no problem being asked “what you country” or any ungrammatical variation. Sometimes more questions and usually “insta, YouTube or Facebook”? To which I direct them to my blog (combining video, photos and text). That resulted in blank disinterest. I don’t think they knew what a website or browser is.
Like many other places BD is plagued with chaotic traffic with electric rickshaws zipping around at speed along with the old pedal rickshaws and every other kind of aggressive road hog. Dangerous it is and I did end up on the ground once in Khulna with a sore coccyx.
In Chattogram (2nd city of BD) there was also a flyover in the city and it reminded me of the shock I had in Kolkata cycling in on the iconic Park Street which has been completely ruined by a flyover above it. Not unlike the flyover above Mohammed Ali Road in Mumbai. All aesthetic and charm lost and for what?
I suppose I will think of more things to rant about but my visit to BD has given me a greater appreciation of India. I immediately felt at home. The professionalism of the security and immigration personnel at the border was exemplary. Although my bicycle was an oddity I was thoroughly checked out.
Tonight a simple veg thali and a Carlsberg was perfect. I can eat again!

The most dangerous highway

James Stevenson — Fri, 19 Apr 2024 14:28:49 +0000

It took forever to get out of Kolkata….I thought I was when going through the wide avenues in the generically ugly new Kolkata of IT parks and drab modern office monstrosities- probably desirable for cyclists- but no, it went on to traffic chaos near the airport.
That continued for the next 50 kms. or so on the most hideously dangerous road I think I have ever been on. Just 2 lanes on what seemed like a never ending town with every sort of vehicle driving with aggression and impatience. And this is a national highway? This is not a road for the faint of heart.

Into West Bengal

James Stevenson — Tue, 16 Apr 2024 14:01:54 +0000

It was a good stop in Jashipur (still in Odisha). The hotel (Kanak Residency) was unfussy, unpretentious, but very good in all respects at 1200rs. Food too was excellent- I will give a nice google review.

After the Simlipal rest day I had an early start and just ground along the 4 lane national highway with a few fairly dangerous 2 lane sections with potholes, speed breakers (still painful for my “broken”!! leg).
After about 40kms. or so I realized I would be doing the full distance to Kharagpur (160 kms.), the only obvious place of finding a good hotel. It was hot, 41 c., and I drank a lot of water and energy drinks. The route today also went through Jharkhand for about 30 kms.
Now I am in West Bengal and tomorrow will be in Kolkata. Not looking forward to the inevitable traffic nightmare that is coming. It will be a challenge.

Here in Kharagpur I looked on google and found a hotel (Kaushik), looked good, but they could only offer a non-ac room with no window. Sorry but no thanks. Farther down the road is Greenlands, nice, but very small room at 2,200rs.

Back in Gilgit

James Stevenson — Thu, 21 Sep 2023 13:02:04 +0000

I have to say the highlight of my day was meeting this beautiful couple from Chile. They are heading up to Hunza but we may meet again in Punjab.
I thought I might be able to get a visa extension here but have found out I must go to Islamabad. So, after buying some diarrhoea medicine and washing my clothes I have a good long ride ahead of me tomorrow to Chilas.