Yes! I should make it to Mumbai tomorrow after this 170 km. marathon. Just noisy highway cycling with the usual chaos. There is so much industrial stink along the way, and there will be more tomorrow.

At one place I passed today there were small places cooking something in clay pots. I stopped at one and had this delicious snack of potato, sweet potato, a sort of parsnip, and a kind of green bean, along with buttermilk.

This is boring cycling on this major highway. It is fast though and now I am keen to get to Mumbai. Gujarat doesn’t interest me much either. It gets hot too in the afternoon. I hope to get to Mumbai in 2 equally long days, if all goes well.

Staying in a clean but characterless Oyo for 500rs.

It worked out that if I stop after 85 kms. today in Halol I could visit the World Heritage site of Champaner. It is interesting because it is pre-mughal Islamic and has a significant Hindu influence.

Unfortunately I really wasn’t feeling so great so didn’t see everything. Surprisingly I was the only tourist this afternoon. That was nice.

This is a beautiful place, well worth visiting.

Earlier I was again refused a place at the inn. This time it was Krishna Hotel. Farther down the road Rajdhani Hotel accepted me- again thanks to my Maharashtran drivers license (and Hindi). It is really quite nice and only 400rs.

It seems seriously “dry” here. It will be good for me.

I had intended to stop for the night in Modassa, about 90kms. but I was there so early (about 11) after an early start, and very good roads that I pressed on to this place, Lunawada. The hills faded out in the morning into very gradual rolling highways with not very heavy traffic. I didn’t spot any hotels when I arrived here and a rickshaw driver gave me directions to Vrindavan Hotel (600 rs.).

I thought I would be in Gujarat today but here I am still in Rajasthan. I am not complaining though- Gujarat is a “dry” state and I am enjoying a beer.

This was a long day with plenty of bad roads. Beautiful hilly countryside but when I felt like stopping for the night there was nothing. Just before dark I found the first hotel I had seen all day and luckily they accepted me. 500rs. a night. This is a remote area.

We went into Udaipur and had lunch with Vishvavijay in his beautiful hotel Udai Kothi. I like the city. Like everywhere else too much traffic but at least here it moves.

I got on my trusty steed and had a pleasant ride of about 30 kms. to Ranakpur.  I had been to this ancient temple years ago but wasn’t prepared for the tourist chaos it has become. I parked my bicycle, changed my shoes but then was denied entry for being in shorts. Fair enough. So I found my pants in my bad and put them on. Again I was refused entry because of the mobile phone in my pocket. I went back and checked it. I guess you can bring a phone in if you pay a fee. But then I can take a selfie anywhere. Maybe because it was a Sunday it was totally crowded with tourists and school groups. I had no idea Ranakpur had become like this. I will stick with my memories of years ago.

The road was very narrow after Ranakpur and there was a lot of this tourist traffic. It was a good climb after many days of flat. Eventually after about 20 kms. google directed me off this road, onto a series of small beautiful traffic-less roads in this exquisite hilly Mewar countryside.

It was eventually almost sunset by the time I arrived at Jyoti’s place which is about 40 kms. from Udaipur.

I had a brilliant stimulating time here and I stayed longer than planned. Thanks to Praduman Singh. My start today was relaxed and my intention, after consulting with Praduman was to take small roads as much as possible. There are many possible routes offered by google (also in walking mode) and all involve some bad roads. The slow manoevering through these stretches slowed me down and tired me out. It was a very long 136 kms.

Eventually I reached Kotri. This is an old small haveli. I was the only guest and received full “saheb” treatment which I find unnatural, stifling, and annoying. The food is also geared for foreigners and quite bland. I cannot believe I didn’t take a photo of the 2 beautiful salukis they have, but I did take a photo of the Marwar horse. The caretaker of the stable had interesting information too. Most of the Marwari horses are in Gujarat and Punjab and most breeding done in Rajasthan (marwar).

They also organize riding safaris. I asked the price- 25,000 rs. for a 1 day excursion.

It wasn’t a very interesting ride and the traffic in Jodhpur was not much fun, but the fort is spectacular.

I didn’t feel like braving the hoardes of tourists and trying to find a place to park my bicycle. And I had visited the fort some years ago.

This place is quite special- Chandelao-and I think it is because of the personality of Praduman Singhji who manages this place in a very personal way. It is astonishing how many tourists come here to this out of the way village. Some visitors come for a womens empowerment project here and I have been very impressed by these women. Interesting things are going on. I have met people from Turkey, Bulgaria, Curacao, Holland, France, Burma, Norway, U.K., Denmark, and Japan. Isn’t that incredible?

I have felt very much at home here. Thank you Praduman Singh.