I thought I would be in Gujarat today but here I am still in Rajasthan. I am not complaining though- Gujarat is a “dry” state and I am enjoying a beer.

This was a long day with plenty of bad roads. Beautiful hilly countryside but when I felt like stopping for the night there was nothing. Just before dark I found the first hotel I had seen all day and luckily they accepted me. 500rs. a night. This is a remote area.

We went into Udaipur and had lunch with Vishvavijay in his beautiful hotel Udai Kothi. I like the city. Like everywhere else too much traffic but at least here it moves.

I got on my trusty steed and had a pleasant ride of about 30 kms. to Ranakpur.  I had been to this ancient temple years ago but wasn’t prepared for the tourist chaos it has become. I parked my bicycle, changed my shoes but then was denied entry for being in shorts. Fair enough. So I found my pants in my bad and put them on. Again I was refused entry because of the mobile phone in my pocket. I went back and checked it. I guess you can bring a phone in if you pay a fee. But then I can take a selfie anywhere. Maybe because it was a Sunday it was totally crowded with tourists and school groups. I had no idea Ranakpur had become like this. I will stick with my memories of years ago.

The road was very narrow after Ranakpur and there was a lot of this tourist traffic. It was a good climb after many days of flat. Eventually after about 20 kms. google directed me off this road, onto a series of small beautiful traffic-less roads in this exquisite hilly Mewar countryside.

It was eventually almost sunset by the time I arrived at Jyoti’s place which is about 40 kms. from Udaipur.

I had a brilliant stimulating time here and I stayed longer than planned. Thanks to Praduman Singh. My start today was relaxed and my intention, after consulting with Praduman was to take small roads as much as possible. There are many possible routes offered by google (also in walking mode) and all involve some bad roads. The slow manoevering through these stretches slowed me down and tired me out. It was a very long 136 kms.

Eventually I reached Kotri. This is an old small haveli. I was the only guest and received full “saheb” treatment which I find unnatural, stifling, and annoying. The food is also geared for foreigners and quite bland. I cannot believe I didn’t take a photo of the 2 beautiful salukis they have, but I did take a photo of the Marwar horse. The caretaker of the stable had interesting information too. Most of the Marwari horses are in Gujarat and Punjab and most breeding done in Rajasthan (marwar).

They also organize riding safaris. I asked the price- 25,000 rs. for a 1 day excursion.

It wasn’t a very interesting ride and the traffic in Jodhpur was not much fun, but the fort is spectacular.

I didn’t feel like braving the hoardes of tourists and trying to find a place to park my bicycle. And I had visited the fort some years ago.

This place is quite special- Chandelao-and I think it is because of the personality of Praduman Singhji who manages this place in a very personal way. It is astonishing how many tourists come here to this out of the way village. Some visitors come for a womens empowerment project here and I have been very impressed by these women. Interesting things are going on. I have met people from Turkey, Bulgaria, Curacao, Holland, France, Burma, Norway, U.K., Denmark, and Japan. Isn’t that incredible?

I have felt very much at home here. Thank you Praduman Singh.

It was very pleasant cycling on the rural roads around here with Praduman Singh.

I would have headed to Udaipur but Jyoyi won’t be back there until Saturday and Praduman Singh has invited me to stay a little longer here. How pleasant….

Heading to Chandelao where I have been invited by Praduman Singh, friend of Jyoti Pande and fellow cycling enthusiast.

What a beautiful ride it was today. Like the other day, as soon as I left the main highway after about 60 kms. I was on wonderful country roads. At 140 kms. it was a long ride.

I hadn’t realized that Praduman Singhji has a hotel here, or more like a small resort for foreign tourists (mostly French it seems). I had a swim in the cold water of the swimming pool and chatted with some French tourists (always a pleasure to speak in French), and their guide (from Jaipur) as I wait for Praduman Singhji who was in Jodhpur for something and is cycling back here- in the dark? Probably.

I am heading south to Chandeleo where fellow cyclist and friend of Jyoti lives. Today was 130 kms. from salasar to Nagaur- flat and straight. I don’t mind at all!

I stopped at the first hotel I saw and have a decent room that quite frankly has everything the previous night’s hotel had except wi-fi.

After my walkabout in Mandawa I headed for Laxmangarh. On the Rajasthan tourism site the fort was given high praise and I love atmospheric forts. Somehow I took a wrong turn around Dunlod and took rural backroads to get back on the highway to Laxmangarh. This turned out to be a very pleasant mistake, such a contrast with the boring highway. Laxmangarh turned out to be smaller than I had imagined and the one guest house I found was full for a marriage party. I thought that rather than climb up to the fort in my cycling shoes it was better to continue on to Salasar.

The hotel was I think the nicest one I have stayed in this entire trip (1300 rs). The hotel and the whole town is a pilgrimage mecca for its Balaji temple.